The first time I heard of the beauty of these islands was from Bimal Dasgupta the renowned painter, whom I had known since childhood. He was showing me a new series of watercolours and acrylics that he had painted and I was awestruck by his use of colours.
When I commented on them, he said he had painted them as he saw them. I told him, “You must have certainly added your own colour visualisation to those corals and other aquamarine life.” He shook his head vigorously. “No,” he said, “exactly as I saw them.” I was mesmerised. I vowed to see it for myself some day.
Fortunately, my friends, the Dominic family, who own the CGH hotels, run a high end resort on Bangaram Island in Lakshadweep. Legend has it the waters within diving distance are a treasure trove of sunken ships with bounty fit for the kings. When they sank, the royal exchequers were slightly dented but the coffers were overflowing and trade with the Orient was thriving.
The Bangaram resort is almost always fully occupied by travellers who book their vacations on these island early, sometimes a year in advance. 128 acres of island. Water. Fun. Diving, snorkelling, deep-sea fishing and kayaking. Most important activity is reclining in a hammock with nothing but the azure blue and swaying palms to meet your eyes and read, listen to music and snooze. And get that city-bred stress out of your system. There are huts that spell luxury. Tariff includes full board. Spa and health club offers a large variety of massage and rejuvenating therapy.
Agatti is the island with the airport. You can get sailboats for island-hopping and watching turtles in their natural habitat. Agatti Island Beach resort has standard and deluxe rooms and are comparatively reasonably priced. Kavaratti is a developed island and offers the spectacle of a glass-bottomed boat to watch the wonders of the sea. Kalpeni and Cheriyam islands are a special treat as during low tide you can walk from one to the other! Cruises to Minicoy islands are an interesting diversion.
Lakshadweep is composed of 36 coral islands. Only ten of these idyllic dots in the Arabian Sea are inhabited. Prahlad Kakkar the adman, and his wife, run a resort and a scuba diving training school that is very popular, with an array of eclectic cuisine.
Bangaram resort has the feel of taking you away on a magical mystery tour to a world unknown to most of us in the mainland India. There is an ethereal feel. A different reality. Of the moment. Of eternity. Of the stars, that you can almost touch. Of the water that cleanses your soul. The ship’s bell hanging above the reception is probably from a wreck that some guest dived to explore. The cuisine here is not just rich in seafood but an array of finger-licking options with much of the ingredients having been carefully picked and flown in from Kochi. They have 26 cottages housing standard rooms and deluxe huts.
Ismael and Faridah. Fisherfolk who melt your heart with their humble hospitality. They shyly offered me the hot fish sambol that they had made at home. I loved it. They had never been photographed together since they were wed and posed coyly for my camera. I sent them an enlarged, framed print of conjugal bliss. It doesn’t take money to be happy. Visitors learn that in Lakshadweep.
Go fish. For seasoned anglers and for beginners like me, the thrill is equally hair-raising. You never know if what you are expected to reel in, is small or almost as big as you are ! Deep-sea fishing is very close to attaining nirvana. Try it – you will know what I mean. I carried a deeply felt fondness for these heavenly islands back with me. And every time I remember them, I am helped by six beautiful paintings by Bimal Dasgupta depicting his surreal vision of Lakshadweep that he had gifted to me before he passed away. Lakshadweep does not let go of you. The easy thing is not to let go of Lakshwadeep either.
Getting there Air India flies daily from Kochi to Agatti except Sundays Flying time 90 minutes. Kingfisher airlines operates thrice a week. All-weather ships from Kochi to the islands takes about 24 hours and special motor boats from Kochi about 10 hours.
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