“Because it is there” was the reply of British mountaineer, George Mallory, when he was asked in 1924 as to why did he want to climb Mt Everest. In August that year, Mallory and his companion, Andrew Irvine, disappeared at al altitude of around 27,000ft, on their way to the Everest summit. What are believed to be Mallory’s remains were found in 1999, seventy-five years after his disappearance.
Mt Everest is very much there. Also there are just a handful of mountains over - 8000m altitude. “They are there…” to climb. Unfortunately, not all of us can climb the likes of Everest – for assorted valid reasons. But, all of us can go and look at these high and mighty mountain peaks in awe, shock and wonder. We in Kolkata are more fortunate because these wonders are almost next door. We can go, gaze at these mountains, raptly.
The mountain-wonders ‘next door’ include four of the five highest peaks in the world. Everest - 8848m (the highest), Kanchenjunga - 8586m( third highest), Lhotse - 8516m (fourth highest) and Makalu - 8485m (fifth highest).The second-highest, K2 is not visible in our region.
Even though each mountain has its share of lore based in facts as well as fancy, perhaps no other mountain have as mythology and myths attached to it as the Kanchenjunga. Until 1852 – when the survey declared Everest as the highest in the world – it was believed that Kanchenjunga is the world’s highest peak. But a ‘bronze medal’ in height does not lower its importance.
It is known by many names: Kanchenjunga, Kinchinjunga, Kanchanjunga, Kangchen Dzo-nga, Kanchendzonga, Kangchanfanga….take your pick. In Limbu language, it is known as SewaLungma. People in Darjeeling/Sikkim Region consider this mountain to be a sacred peak hence climbing the summit is not permitted on religious grounds. Some Tibetans believe that god Gangs Chen mdzod Inga is the personification of Mt Kanchenjunga. Religious rituals and dances are held annually by Tibetan Monks in honour of the mountain.
One meaning of Kanchenjunga is The Abode of the Gods consisting of Five Treasure Houses – perhaps referring to its five peaks, Narshingh, Pandim, Siniolchu, Simvo and Kabru. Some also think that the Treasures represent the five repositories of God in the snows of the mountain –gold, silver, gems, grains and holy books. Whatever you may choose to believe, you cannot deny the fact that a ‘darshan’ of the peaks – especially, Kanchenjunga – is an unforgettable experience.
The ‘Die-hards Club’ considers that the only way of a ‘proper’ viewing is to go to Darjeeling, get up at some unearthly early-early-morning hour, spend time in getting to the top of Tiger Hill – and await their fate. They may get a viewing, or, the darshan may be denied to them because of clouds/mists/fog/rain.
It really is a matter of karma. If your ‘karma’ is good – you will see. If not, then NOT. Good karma can get you very good views from your aircraft on your way to Siliguri’s Bagdogra Airport and while travelling on the highways/roads of the region. It is also possible to get impressive darshan from around the lake in Mirik, the restaurant windows of the Tourist Lodge in Kurseong, from the rooms of the Morgan House Tourist Lodge, Kalimpong and some rooms in the Darjeeling Tourist Lodge.
Windamere Hotel, Elgin Hotel, Cedar Inn Hotel, Swiss Hotel – all in Darjeeling – also offer good views. A good bet is to get up before sunrise and make your way to Chowrasta in Darjeeling and get some magnificent views from spots on the road going down from the Chowrasta and passing below the Tourist Lodge.
A personal favourite is getting up early to go the Tashi View Point in Gangtok, have great darshan, and some hot coffee/conversation with the young man who runs the refreshment stall. Most satisfying – for the eyes/stomach/soul.
Remember that there are some of the best viewing conditions in October/November. Go, gaze at the mountains.
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